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Tech Tip # 13:
SCRAPING GLIDE WAX FROM SKIS |
January 16, 2002 |
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We ski on wax-impregnated bases, not a layer of glide wax. After hot waxing, the next step is to scrape off all the surface wax. When to do this varies with the type and hardness of the wax.
The often-repeated maxim is to scrape the wax after it has cooled to room temperature. But this is generally wrong and just drags out the waxing process. The goal should be to make the waxing process as quick, easy, and effective as possible. We want to spend as little time (and money) in the wax room as possible and still have fast gliding skis.
Once the wax has solidified, it will not migrate further into the pores of the base (another misconception). Wax does tend to adhere to itself when in a liquid or semi liquid state. Thus, taking wax off the ski base too soon can literally pull the wax out of the surface layer pores. On the other hand, the modern harder glide waxes tend to chip when removed at room temperature, and thus could chip right out of those same surface layers pores.
CLEANING and IMPREGNATING WAXES are best removed warm or even when still liquid. These are the soft paraffin type waxes, like STAR Uniblock yellow. The goal here is to allow them to penetrate by warming the base thoroughly so that the wax becomes completely liquid on the surface. An excellent way to remove these waxes when in a liquid state is to use a paper towel and just wipe off the wax. This does remove wax out of the surface pores, which is the goal. We want these waxes to penetrate down into the base and them remove them completely from the surface and top pores so that they do not dilute (but do draw in) our next wax.
The “paper towel method” saves time by doing the scraping and brushing in one easy quick step. But it only works with these soft waxes and only if the wax remains in a liquid state. Take a couple minutes to slowly warm the ski while ironing in these soft paraffin waxes. Always start with a ski at room temperature and use an iron temperature that easily melts the wax but does not smoke, If the wax starts to solidify while wiping it off, then the ski and wax are not warm enough. Add a bit more wax and continue.
If the skis are dirty, start with a quick cleaning coat (perhaps scraping as the ski will not get really warm) then do a second penetration coat. This second coat can be allowed to cool and reheated a second time before removal. Once the wax has become and remains completely liquid, stop ironing. Do not allow the ski to become too hot (to touch) and do not continually heat the wax so that it becomes gummy. If the cleaning/impregnator wax solidifies or cools to room temperature, it should be scraped and completed brushed off the base surface before applying the wax-of-the-day. Or, reheat and wipe off.
SOFT WARM WEATHER WAXES should be allowed to fully solidify before scraping. The softer the wax, the closer to room temperature the skis should be before scraping, and especially, brushing. If the skis will be allowed to completely cool, it is best to use a groove scraper to clean the groove when the wax is still warm and soft.
Scraping these softer waxes when the ski is still slightly warm is OK, but let them cool a bit more before hand brushing. By alternating between skis (of a pair, or multiple sets), there will be no down time waiting for the skis to cool. It is possible, but not critical, to put the skis outside to cool. Do this after an initial scraping. The colder exterior temperatures will cause the base to contract and squeeze wax out of the pores and onto the surface. Re-scrape before hand brushing and roto brushing/polishing.
HARD COLD WEATHER WAXES have a lot of synthetic plastic wax content and become brittle when cooled. These waxes are very difficult to scrape at room temperature unless they are “shaved” off with a very sharp Plexiglas (plastic) scraper. Two possible problems are base damage from the sharp plastic scraper and the chipping of the wax out of the pores, especially if the scraper is not super sharp.
An easier way to remove these harder waxes is to just take them off while still warm. Very hard waxes, like START Green (available again at Sierra Nordic) or STAR MAP Black and TF18 Green, need to be scraped immediately. Most harder glide waxes for temperatures in 20’s F should be allowed to cool a bit so that the wax is still warm but definitely solid (not semi solid). It is always easiest to work with one ski at a time when using these hard waxes. Wax penetration will be best if a soft impregnator wax is used first, wiped off with the paper towel method, and then two light coats of the hard wax applied in immediate succession.
With hard waxes for very cold conditions, it is critical to put the skis outside to get very cold before the final scraping. Wax, scrape immediately, hand brush with a soft brass or copper brush when still warm, put the skis outside to get really cold, then re-scrape, hand brush, and finally roto brush. Remember that when the skis are used in cold conditions, the bases will contract and squeeze out wax onto the surface or into the structure. The snow will stick to this wax and slow the glide.
Enjoy fast skis. e
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