Waxable skis require a "kick wax". There are two basic types of "wax" that go in the kick zone of waxable striding skis: hard wax (that's the rub-on and cork smooth kick wax in the little round tins), and klister (that's the gooey stuff in the small "toothpaste" tubes - klister is Norwegian for "glue"). The kick wax has to match the type of snow (new, old, temperature, moisture content) to provide grip yet not "ice" (collect snow). This can be problematic, but when the kick wax is right, waxable striding skis have much better kick. They always have better glide than no-wax skis.

No-Wax (or waxless) refers to the kick zone. These skis have a pattern area that works in place of a kick wax. No-wax skis work by pushing the ski DOWN and holding it there. The pattern (fish scales) deforms the snow and resists rearward motion. Two important points here:

A) Push down, not rearward. The "fixed" ski becomes set in place and the skier moves forward (transferring momentum to this next gliding ski). It may look like the ski is kicked backwards (like a mule), but this is simply an after effect of gliding onto the other ski. The longer the entire foot is kept flat on the ski (bend at the ankles), the longer the ski will remain "gripped" to the snow. When the heel is raised, the ski will slip. Instead of trying to kick backwards, kick the other ski forwards. Pretend there is a soccer ball at the feet (right below you); kick the ball and land on that ski in a gliding motion. The technique of striding is the same with waxable or no-wax skis.

B) A no wax ski must be able to deform the snow to grip. There are certain conditions where no-wax skis will give very little or no grip, such as on hard icy tracks or when the tracks become "glazed" (pressed smooth with use; being hard and shiny).

Unlike a waxable ski where the kick wax can be adjusted for different snow conditions, a no-wax ski must have one pattern that works in all (or most) conditions. Therefore, the camber of the ski needs to be fairly soft and the pattern must always "drag" a little, rubbing on the snow. This is what causes the zinging sound. It is also the reason why no-wax skis are always slower (have less glide) than waxable skis.

Because the pattern area is always rubbing on the snow, it is important for it to be glide-waxed as well. The easiest way to do this is with a rub-on wax.
The most common product used for glide on no-wax skis is Maxiglide, which is essentially a Teflon wax dissolved in a "vehicle" (liquid) that evaporates, leaving behind a waxy film on the surface of the ski base. Most wax companies make some sort of paste wax for this purpose. We think TOKO's Dibloc Paste Wax is an excellent product for this purpose, superior to liquids and semi-pastes. It does not make the skis smell like "wet dog" as some other products do.

The no wax pattern area can also be "hot waxed" similarly to the gliding areas of the skis. Start with a soft wax, like STAR Uniblock yellow. Wipe off the wax when still warm and liquid with Swix Fiberlene paper. Next, iron in a little harder glide wax, but this wax must not be too hard. Our current recommendation is to use one of the FS gliders from RODE:
Violet (FS30, for colder snow),
Red (FS 40, for moist snows, high 20's to low 30's °F), or
Yellow (FS 50, for warmer and wet snow).

Be somewhat generous with the wax; the crayon method does not work well because of the "scales". Have several pieces of Fiberlene ready for IMMEDIATE removal of the wax right behind the iron. Remove all the surface wax from the pattern when the wax is still molten. After the skis have cooled, brush the kick zone with a soft brass or new nylon hand brush. Finally, polish the pattern areas with one of the SIERRA NORDIC white polishing pads.

It is possible for skiers to have a ski shop do an occasional hot waxing (tips, tails, and the pattern), and then apply the TOKO Dibloc Paste Wax along the entire base every time they ski. This will simplify the waxing process, and yield good gliding skis in most snow conditions. Note that really cold or wet snow is always slow (less glide). Avoid alpine (downhill ski) shops and only go to good XC ski specialty shops. Properly done, after hot waxing there should be NO wax remaining on the surface, but the ski base should feel waxy when pressed with a thumb.

USING TOKO DIBLOC PASTE WAX: apply a small amount (be conservative), spread it around with the foam top applicator to a thin layer, and let it dry for a couple minutes, then polish with a rag or paper towel.

The paste wax doesn't really go into the base, but it will refill the tops of the pores. Waxing every time replenishes what gets worn off with each ski. But after say 10-12 outings, the skis will benefit with another hot waxing.

Remember, we ski on a wax impregnated base, not a layer of wax. Surface wax only collects dirt and sticky snow crystals (sharp or wet). Excess wax does not wear off with skiing; it only decreases the glide. So after hot waxing, there should be no surface wax (but the bases should feel waxy). When using the Toko paste wax, apply a thin coat to avoid "waxy buildup"!

If you live near Sierra Nordic XC ski shop, you can drop off your skis any day for pick up the next time you skis. The Toko Dibloc Paste wax costs $18. A tube will last a very long time. You can get this at the shop or order it on-line.

For more information on waxing, ski care, and skiing technique, go to our Tech Tip Archives.

All recommended waxes, tools, and supplies may be ordered from our On-Line Shop.