Sierra Nordic Cross Country Ski Shop and Mail Order Sales

by Noel Charonnat

NOTICE OF LIABILITY: this technical tip is provided for general guideline purposes only; utilization of this technical tip will require varying degrees of mechanical skills and experience, as well as specialized tools. Always follow common sense and safety procedures; seek additional advice or professional assistance if there are questions or uncertainty about procedures. Because the author and Sierra Nordic cannot control the application, interpretation, or workmanship of the procedures described in this technical tip, no warranty is expressed or implied. If in doubt, have all work done by an experienced professional at a ski shop that specializes in cross-country performance equipment. Use this and all technical tips at your own risk; if you are unwilling to accept such risks, do not use or follow the advice and information provided.

GENERAL PROCEDURE: the mounting of Salomon PILOT skate bindings onto cross country skate skis requires determining the balance point of each ski, lining up the binding on the ski and marking the location of the screw holes, drilling the holes with the correct size drill bit, then mounting the bindings using a “Pozidriv” screwdriver and epoxy glue. Salomon recommends that a Salomon cross-country dealer mount the bindings. Salomon bindings are NOT supplied with a mounting template or mounting procedures. This technical tip is designed to provide a general guideline for the mounting of the Pilot bindings based on common ski shop practices; keep in mind that it is impossible to pre-determine all situations and problems, or to detail all procedures exactly. A fairly high degree of mechanical skill, general knowledge of cross country ski service, and special tools are required. If in doubt of any of the procedures, consult a professional technician at a cross-country ski shop that specializes in performance in-track cross-country skis.

The mounting of PILOT skate bindings onto skis that have been previously mounted with other bindings (“remounting”) requires additional preparation work before the new PILOT bindings can be mounted. Remounting when Salomon Profil bindings were previously used is relatively easy; remounting when NNN bindings were previously used is more complicated. PLEASE NOTE: mounting of a second set of bindings (with different holes) on skis can void the ski warranty; consult the ski manufacture before proceeding. All remounts represent some degree of risk that the new bindings will pull out of the ski, especially if proper ski preparation and remounting procedures are not followed. If you are unsure of your ability to mount or remount bindings, have this work done by a professional technician at a cross country ski shop that specializes in performance in-track cross country skis.

TOOLS & SUPPLIES REQUIRED: ski tools are available from SIERRA NORDIC
1. #3 Pozidriv screwdriver. The ski industry uses screws that look similar to Phillips screws, but they are slightly different and are not interchangeable. Do NOT use a Phillips screwdriver! #3 refers to the size of the screwdriver (largest used in ski industry). Besides actual screwdrivers, 1/4-inch hexagon screwdriver “bits” are available. These bits fit into any screwdriver, which accepts such bits at the business end of the screwdriver. Bits come in varying lengths (about 1 to 3 inches); the longer ones are for use in electric drill/screwdrivers.

2. Ski Drill Bit, 3.5 or 3.6 x 7.5 to 14 mm. These special drill bits are either 3.5 or 3.6 mm in width (the thickness of the shaft part of the screw). Do not use larger bits designed for alpine ski screws. The length of the bit (the part that goes into the ski) can be 7.5, 9.5 or 14 mm. The shortest length (7.5) is designed for thinner skis (such as junior or telemark), but can be used to mount the Pilot bindings on skate skis with honeycomb or wafer cores (such as Atomic Beta Race or Fischer RCS adult skis) because with these skis the binding’s screws only attach to the top sheet and underlying binding reinforcement layer. The core is basically air and does not need to be drilled. The 9.5 mm bits work well for most skis (honeycomb/wafer cores and foam core skis). The 14 mm length bits are recommended for skis with wood cores (such as Fischer “air channel”) since the screws that come with the Pilot bindings are approximately 14 mm in (insertion) length and a wood core ski must have the length of screw insertion drilled. Do not use the longer drill bits on thinner skis as the drill bit could drill all the way through the ski. Double check!

These special ski bits also have “shoulders” which stop the bit after drilling into the ski the length of the actual drill portion, plus chamfering the edge of the hole. This chamfer helps the screw fit better because the top sheet of the ski rises above the ski surface as the screw is inserted. WARNING: even with the shoulder, if excess pressure is applied when drilling the ski, the entire bit, shoulder and all, can be pushed (drilled) completely through the ski. Skis so damaged may not be repairable.

3. Electric Drill with either a 1/4 or 3/8 inch chuck. Variable speed is best. A cordless drill will work.

4. Steel Scraper or thin ruler for balancing ski. Also a thin flow pen (“Sharpie”) to mark the balance point on the ski.

5. Mill Bastard File, 8 to 12 inches with handle. This tool is only required for remounts. A handle is important for safety when using the file (prevents the thong from accidentally ripping open the underside of the forearm).

6. Thick Blade Putty Knife for removing the heel plates of old bindings; also works well for shearing off plastic pins and small binding nails; Hyde tools makes a good model, available at paint stores.

7. Electric Soldering Gun, such as a Weller Junior. This tool is only required for remounts when the screws of the old binding cannot be turned because the epoxy is holding too tight. Heat breaks the epoxy bond; just put the tip of the soldering gun on the screw, wait a little bit for the screw to get hot, then try again to remove the screw. It will turn easier and can be removed. CAUTION: screw can get too hot to touch with bare fingers.

8. Epoxy two-part glue. The best epoxy is the 5-minute epoxy GEL available at most hardware stores. It stays put and does not drop into the ski, which can damage foam cores. Wood glue is NOT recommended, even the better “yellow” kind. Salomon makes a mounting glue similar to model glue, but two part epoxy is the standard of the cross-country ski industry. Round Toothpicks work well for mixing the epoxy and putting it into the holes drilled for the screws. Finish nails can also be used.

9. Other small hand tools that may be needed include a sharp pointed punch or nail; flat punch; hammer; medium flat blade screwdriver; #2 Phillips screwdriver (for retro-fitted screws); #2 Pozidriv screwdriver (for some older NNN bindings).

BINDING LOCATION: skate skis are best mounted on the balance point. This means that the front end of the boot - the front surface of the most forward pin - is lined up with the balance point. The Salomon mounting jig (used by ski shops) does this automatically. Just line up the balance line on the template (or jig) with the balance point of the ski. If a jig is not available, the binding itself can be used as a mounting template. Remove the screws from one of the pair of bindings, line up the front edge of the front pin slot with the balance line; then, using a pen, mark the location of screw holes. IMPORTANT: make sure that the rear portion of the binding is slid to its forward position (AFTER removing the screws!) before marking its location.

Some persons or shops recommend moving skate bindings forward (which lightens the tip of the ski). We do not recommend this unless there is an overriding personal reason to do so. When skating first started in the early 1980’s, moving bindings forward (about 10 mm) was a common procedure to lighten the ski tip, which caused the ski tip to rise on the return stroke and made it easier to bring the ski forward. This was compensation for poor equipment, evolving skating technique, and lack of trail grooming for skating. Some ski reps mounted the bindings on their demo skis forward to give the illusion that their models skied better. Some shops experimented with radical binding placements, or acted like (and sometimes still do) that the exact placement of bindings is a mysterious secret that only their shop knows (BS). Ski and binding manufacturers design modern skating skis to be mounted on the balance point. The only two overriding personal considerations to move the bindings forward (about 10 mm) are first, if the skier has a medical condition (injury or deformation) which limits bending at the ankles, or secondly, the ski trails are very poorly groomed and the skier has to constantly step over chunks of “crud” or large undulations.

When mounting the Pilot bindings with the balance point of the ski lined up with front tangent of the front pin, the ski balance (with the bindings mounted) will shift backwards to between the two pins. This is correct. The Pilot bindings have more mass to the rear of the ski’s balance point, but since the boot is attached to the ski at two points, it is picking up the ski at the combined balance point.

Each ski must be separately balanced and mounted according to its own balance point. Balance points on a pair of skis can vary by up to 10 mm (about 3/8 inch) - the ski industry considers this to be normal manufacturing tolerances. Few skis have absolutely identical balance points and 5 mm difference is very acceptable and normal. 10 mm is pushing it a bit, but OK. Do NOT split the difference or transfer one ski’s balance point to the other ski. Do NOT go by manufacturer’s markings (“balance line”), but actually determine the balance of each ski.

It does not matter that the tip of one ski will be a couple millimeters in front of the other. Also, a few millimeters one way or the other does not effect the compression of the camber whatsoever. The center camber of a ski is a long slow curve; compressing the ski at any two points relatively close together along that camber gives the same results. Determining the mounting location by measuring from the tail of the ski (another recent ski tech misconception) is a bad idea because it assumes all ski balance points are the same - they are not. Even the cambers aren’t exact. Even on the fastest World Cup skiers’ skis. Skis are hand made, they are not exact - between pairs or even within pairs that are made side by side on the same mold at the same time at the factory. By mounting each ski relative to it’s own balance point, the skis and their tips will balance and react identically during the skating stroke. That’s the goal.

The best way to balance a ski is to take a steel scraper, thin ruler or angled edge of a plastic scraper, balance the ski on it, then eyeball the location of the balance point from above. Mark this point with a sharp tip flow pen (“Sharpie”), then using a scraper or similar object with a 90 degree angle, line up one edge of the scraper along the ski’s edge and draw a fine line across the ski that represents the balance point (line). Double check to confirm that this line is correct.

If remounting skis, do any repair work before balancing skis.

DRILLING THE HOLES: If you have access to a Salomon mounting jig (for Profil models), line up the jig’s balance line with the balance line drawn on the ski. Note that the rear hole may appear incorrect, but the screw will line up when the heel plate portion of the binding is slid forward AFTER the forward screws are screwed into the ski. The Salomon jig has integral drill bit supports (for ski drill bits only), so the holes can be drilled true and straight.

If using the binding as a mounting template, remove all screws from one binding. Make sure the binding is lined up straight, true and centered on the ski. Tape it in place; then using a Sharpie pen, mark each hole. Slide the rear plate forward before marking its location. Remove the binding; then with a punch or point of a nail, tap a little mark at the center of each hole location. The idea is to put a little punch mark at the center of each drill hole, which will act as a starter for the drill bit so that it does not wonder off the mark. Alternately, using a 1/16-inch drill bit, a small starter hole can be drilled in the top sheet. CAREFUL: do not punch too hard, just make a little starting mark for the drill bit, do not actually put a “punch dent” into the ski. If using a small drill bit, just drill the top sheet slightly - it is easy to drill all the way through the ski if using a drill bit without a shoulder. Finally, drill the holes with the ski binding drill bit.

ATTACHING THE SCREWS: using a round toothpick or finish nail, mix up a small amount of two-part 5 minute epoxy GEL. Other epoxies will work, but this one works best. One part may be blue in color; mix until the blue color disappears. Most epoxies use equal parts of the resin and hardener; follow the directions on the epoxy label. After mixing, use the toothpick to put a little epoxy into each hole. Coat the edges of the top sheet just inside the hole. On lightweight skate skis, the screws only attach to the ski at the top sheet of the ski - not the actual core. Do not try to fill the entire hole. All you need to do is work a glob of epoxy about half the size of a plump raisin into the hole. Do not put epoxy on the top of the ski - put it in the hole! It’s the screws that hold the bindings - smearing epoxy on the top of the ski will not help attach the bindings.

If using a non-gel epoxy, especially a slow (not 5 minute) epoxy, turn the ski upside down after mounting. This will allow any epoxy that got into the core to “pancake” around the screw on the inside of the top sheet. This is very important on foam filled skis since epoxies can dissolve some foams.

Use a #3 Pozidriv screwdriver to screw in all the screws snugly. If using a cordless screwdriver-drill with a #3 Pozidriv bit, put the drill on clutch mode to prevent stripping the screws, plus double check the snugness of all screws with a hand screwdriver. WARNING: a regular electric drill may have too much torque and can strip out the screw hole by over-tightening. If in doubt, use a hand screwdriver! Remember that the screw only attaches to that very thin top sheet of the ski.

After screwing down the front three screws and the middle screw, slide the Pilot binding’s heel plate forward and screw in the rear screw. A little yellow cap covers this screw hole and prevents water entry. Use a flat punch or hammer to snap it into place (we use a BMW exhaust valve). To remove this cap, use a flat blade screwdriver, puncturing it through the slot and prying it out. Replacement caps are available.

SPECIAL NOTE FOR ATOMIC BETA SKIS: After filling the holes with epoxy, place the special plastic filler plate (from Atomic) in the center groove and line up the holes. Remove all center screws that come on the binding and replace them with the appropriate longer screws that came with the ridge filler plate (the package contains screws for both Profil and NNN - which use the flat pancake top screws). Only hand-tighten the center screws; do not use an electric screwdriver or drill.

ATTACH BINDING PULL LEVER: this is the rubber grip that pulls up the front of the binding housing for entry/exit. With the housing up (binding open), insert the front portion (short flange) first, then pinch the rear portion (long flange) towards the front of the ski and push it downwards into position. From underneath the lever, put the hole in the long slot portion over the little pin. This rubber pull can be mounted by hand without any tools. CAREFUL: using a screwdriver or similar tool is dangerous because it is easy to slip and puncture or cut a hand.

If the housing lever is closed before the pull is in place, the lever can be raised using a flat blade screwdriver prying up the lever through the pull slot.

REMOUNTING: if the skis have had bindings previously mounted (even Pilot), the mounting procedure is the same after the old bindings have been removed and the top sheets of the skis have been properly prepared.

Remove the heel plate of the old bindings with a stiff blade putty knife. On most bindings (Salomon Profil, some Salomon SNS, NNN2, Adidas SDS), the heel plate is connected with adhesive strips and plastic pin(s), which may be integral with the plate(s) and not obvious. Some older bindings used nails or #2 Pozidriv screws, and sometimes the pins or nails have been retrofitted with other screws (Pozidriv or Phillips). You can tell if a screw is a Pozidriv by the lines between the slots (look at the head of a screw from the new Pilot bindings).

The safest way to remove the heel plate is to turn the ski on edge (sidewall) on a wood workbench. Take the stiff blade putty knife, and working vertically, slowly pry off the heel plate and any pins, screws, and adhesive strips. Work a bit on one side; flip the ski over, then work a bit on the other side. Profil heel plates usually can be removed without breakage. The pins on NNN, SNS, and SDS usually break off; NNN heel plates often break. If the pins or nails won’t come out, put the stiff blade putty knife against them (vertically), and shear them off with a sharp blow from a hammer to the putty knife handle. WARNING: do NOT work with the ski base flat on the work surface. If the blade slips while prying, the putty knife can cut the hand that is holding the ski. Do not put the ski in a vise, especially if shearing off the pins with a hammer; the force must be spread along a wide area of the ski.

The heel plate on Salomon Profil hides the rear two screws. To expose the front screw, remove the rubber bumper (“Flexor”). Use a medium flat blade screwdriver to pop out the pin that locks in the bumper. On NNN2 bindings, the bumper hides the rear two screws, with the front screw under the little cap (pry it off with a screwdriver). With Profil automatic bindings, the housing has to be pushed to the downward (open) position; then lifted up at the same time.

Remove all the screws with a #3 Pozidriv screwdriver. Screws that are impossible to turn are probably frozen in place by epoxy. Take a soldering gun and heat up the screw. This will break the bond. If there is any epoxy on the top sheet from the previous mounting job, it will just chip off. Clean the top sheet of all dirt and remove all traces of the heel plate adhesive (wax remover works well).

The top sheet will be raised up around each screw hole. As a screw goes into the ski, the top sheet rises up; a chamfered hole helps, but even with a chamfer this is normal. The raised portion of the top sheet MUST be removed or the new bindings will not seat down properly (flat and snug). To flatten the top sheet, use a mill bastard file with a handle. Hold the ski flat on the work surface with the holding hand behind the direction of the file. A mill bastard file has its teeth slanted forward, so it only files in the forward direction. Do not go back and forth.

The top sheet needs to be filed fairly, but not perfectly, flat. Some skis, notable older Fischer RCS skis, have top sheets that easily splinter. You can epoxy these slivers back in place when mounting the new bindings.

If any of the screws were loose, it is best to epoxy the hole completely. Take some strands or small pieces of Fibertex (Scotchbrite) and stuff the core portion of the hole with a toothpick. Fill the top portion of the hole with epoxy, taking care to work it well into the sides of the hole. If available, some small pieces of fiberglass sheet material (for painting or auto body work, not fiberglass insulation) can be mixed into the epoxy as reinforcing. Fill the hole to just above the top sheet, let the epoxy cure for at least 24 hours (at 70°F), then file the top sheet flat. When mounting the new bindings in this (re-drilled) hole, use a slower set epoxy, work a little additional amount into the hole, and immediately turn the ski upside down after mounting is complete. Let the epoxy cure for 48 additional hours before using the ski. WARNING: if the screw hole is completely stripped out, this fix may not hold and it is recommended that either the binding locations be moved at least 10 millimeters forward or back, or that the ski be thrown away. If the new bindings ever come loose again, do not use the ski - cut it in half and throw it away!

Pilot bindings will reuse the same holes as Profil Skate bindings, with one additional hole. With NNN and Adidas SDS bindings, the holes should be in significantly different locations - they might not be if the bindings were not mounted relative to balance point. Fill all old holes and flatten the top sheet, as above, then proceed with drilling the new holes. With Salomon SNS and automatic bindings, all holes may or may not lineup. Some holes may need to be filled and new holes drilled. REMEMBER: all screws must be epoxied in place, even if going into old holes. It is the fresh epoxy that cures around the new screws which holds them to the top sheet. New screw holes should be at least 10 mm from old filled holes. Re-balance and mark skis after filling holes.

BASE PREP: during the mounting or remounting process, the base may get a few slight dings in it (try to work on a clean flat surface!). Waxing the skis with a soft paraffin wax (e.g., Star yellow Uniblock wax) will saturate and swell the bases, removing most minor dings (dents, not cuts). For best results, wax two times. The skis can also be steel scraped (peeled) at this time. If stonegrinding is desired, do it when the skis have no bindings on them. (NOTE: all new skis come stoneground from the factory. It is a waste of money and base material to regrind new skis!)

CREAKING BINDINGS: if the Pilot bindings creak, it is probably coming from the rear heel plate section. This is caused by the rear screw being just a fraction of an millimeter too forward or at a slight angle, causing the heel plate to bow slightly and not fit flat to the ski. It creaks between the yellow and black plastic parts. Try this fix first: spray a little silicone between the two plastics. If this does not work, remove the binding, elongate the rear hole, and follow the remounting procedures.

CARE and MAINTENANCE: keep the bindings and skis clean of any dirt and grime (especially in Spring) - just wipe with a wet towel, or use a mild soap solution. Do not use harsh detergents or chemicals. For tarry waxy gunk, use Toko Gel Clean or a little Star Ecosol on a piece of Swix Fiberlene cloth, then polish with a paper towel. Salomon recommends that the bindings be stored in the open position. Periodically, and especially after any falls, check that the bindings are working properly and are securely attached to the ski. Repair or replace if there are any signs of damage or wear.

Do not force bindings to close - clean out any snow packed into the sole of the boot. To help keep snow from sticking to the sole, spay with silicon (not WD40). Avoid walking off snow. A pair of galoshes (“rubbers”) that go over dress shoes on rainy days work well to avoid wear on the soles when walking on pavement or unpaved gravel parking lots. Snow sticks to dirty and scuffed soles.

All recommended tools and supplies may be ordered from our On-Line Shop.